Install large tile mosaic

A multitude of tile patterns to give your space pizzazz. Includes downloadable PDFs. Large format tile has install challenges so our experts provide these easy-to-do tips. Installing Tile. Installation Requirement For proper bonding, medium bed mortar should be used in installing tiles with a dimensional length greater than 20" x 20", large rectangles or tiles with greater dimensional thickness than normal.

Back buttering tiles of this nature in the installation process will also assure proper coverage for body. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls, which will intersect at the center of room. Make sure they're perfectly square, and adjust if necessary. Next, lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints use tile spacers.

Divide the room into smaller grids approx. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the adhesive or mortar package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes. Do not cover guidelines. Next, use the notched side of trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding trowel at a degree angle.

Make straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter, curved cuts with a nipper chipping away small pieces for best results and full-length curved cuts with a rod saw.

Begin installing tiles in the center of the room, one grid at a time. Finish each grid before moving to the next. When grid is completely installed, tap in all tiles with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and level plane. Carefully read and follow all instructions and precautions on the grout package. Most pros begin installation at the very center of the surface, first installing all full sheets of tile, then doing whatever cutting is necessary at the borders and around obstacles.

Beginning at the center where the layout lines cross, use a notched trowel to apply a layer of thin-set adhesive to one of the layout quadrants, working in sections about 2 to 3 feet square. Make sure not to over-apply the adhesive; you should be able to see the cement board at the bottom of the grooves. Apply the first tile sheet into the corner of the first quadrant, carefully adjusting it with your hands to ensure that it is perfectly square with the layout lines.

Press firmly to embed the tile in the thin-set. Hold for several seconds, and watch for any sliding as you release hand pressure on the tile. Your tile and the thin-set product will specify what size of a notched trowel to use.

Some trowels use V-shaped notches, while others have square notches. Install adjoining mosaic sheets in the first quadrant in the same manner, using tile spacers to ensure that gaps between sheets are exactly the same as the gaps between tiles within the sheets.

With mosaic sheets, the small tiles are staggered so the sheets interlock. Be careful to ensure that the grout seams remain uniform throughout the tile field. Mosaic sheets do not behave in quite the same way as single large tiles; they can ripple or form waves on the surface. To prevent this, after every few sheets are installed, "set" the tiles by using a small piece of plywood about 8 inches square and a rubber mallet to tap down the mosaic sheet into the thin-set.

This flattens the tile area, giving it a nice smooth surface. Pay particular attention to the seams between sheets, to make sure there is no lippage where one row of tiles is higher than its neighboring row or slippage where gaps between sheets are wider than the grout gaps within the sheets. As you approach the edges of the tile area, you will likely need to cut tile sheets down to size.

In some cases, simply cutting the fiberglass mesh will create a partial sheet exactly the right size for your needs, but in other situations, you may need to trim the individual edge tiles to fit precisely. Avoid this when you can; you may be able to use cove tiles or other accents, or baseboard moldings, to cover the gaps at the edge of a layout.

To cut the sheets down to size, simply cut the mesh backing along the grout seams using a sharp utility knife. Install the cut sheets of tile in the same fashion as the full sheets. Where individual tiles within the sheet need to be cut, you have several options.

Sheets of tile can be fed through a tile wet saw in the same manner as used with full-size ceramic tiles. This is by far the easiest way to cut tiles, and it is the best strategy for very large tile installations where lots of cutting is needed.

Wet saws are available for rental at home improvement centers and tool leasing outlets. Simple wet saws are relatively inexpensive and are a good investment if you do regular tile work. Another option is a simple hand tool known as a tile nipper, which looks like a pair of modified pliers and can be used to "nibble" each individual tile square within the sheet. Or, you can use a rail cutter or snap tile cutter, as it is sometimes called to score an entire row of tiles. The tool's pivot lever can then be used to snap each individual tile within the sheet, one at a time.

With one quadrant of the tile job done, repeat the preceding steps to complete the other three quadrants, one at a time. With each quadrant, work from the center point of the layout outward to the edges. Conclude the installation by installing whatever trim or accent tiles you are using.

This can include bullnose edging, cove tiles, or baseboard tiles. These are also applied using thin-set adhesive. After all the tiles are installed, allow the installation to harden a bit before moving on to grouting. After the mosaic tiles have thoroughly hardened into the thin-set and are in no danger of shifting, mix up a batch of grout from dry power or you can use pre-mixed grout for small jobs.

Follow the manufacturer's directions for mixing. Load the edge of a rubber grout float with grout, then spread the grout over the top of the tile. Using multiple passes of the grout float, force the grout into the joints, holding the float at a degree angle to the surface. The edge of the float is what forces the grout deep into the joints.

You will need to alternate the direction of the grout float to ensure that grout fully fills all joints. Continue until all joints are filled with grout. With mosaic tiles, this can be a lengthy process since there are many grout joints.

Use the edge of the grout float to scrape off large amounts of excess grout from the face of the tiles. Allow the grout to harden slightly, according to the manufacturer's directions, then wipe the face of the tiles with a clean cloth to remove dried grout. After the grout is fully cured again, according to the manufacturer's direction , use a liquid grout haze remover to get rid of any remaining grout film.

Because tile grout is porous, it must be sealed in order to protect the underlayment, as well as the integrity of the grout. This is particularly important in damp locations, such as showers. Use whatever type of sealer is recommended by the grout manufacturer, and wait until the grout is completely dry and cured before applying it.

With mosaic tiles and their many grout lines, the easiest way to apply sealer is by brushing or rolling the entire surface. As the surface begins to dry, wipe away excess sealer from the surface of the tiles; it will have already penetrated the grout. Most sealers suggest two applications for initial sealing, then additional application every one to two years.